Meet your new favourite neighbourhood
Get to know Katong-Joo Chiat in Singapore through the eyes of Kim Choo Kueh Chang owner, Edmond Wong
When I step into a new neighbourhood, the first thing I notice is the architecture. I love seeing cool houses and buildings.
Next is the food. I look forward to checking out the busy stalls and restaurants, even if I can’t eat or go into each and every one.
Third is the history. What’s old or unique to the area? Where are the interesting mementos and back stories?
And the people, of course.
But there’s so much more to a neighbourhood or precinct than just these four elements. Though if you think that’s a good start; are pressed for time; and/or are on the hunt for a neighbourhood to explore that offers this combination, may I suggest Katong-Joo Chiat? (That’s in Singapore, by the way, in case you’re wondering.)
Through the National Heritage Board’s (NHB) “Street Corner Heritage Galleries: Katong-Joo Chiat”, you’ll get to know the area from six heritage businesses that have seen and experienced its growth best.
These businesses – Kway Guan Huat Joo Chiat Popiah, Joo Chiat Fei Fei Wanton Noodle House, Kim Choo Kueh Chang, Guan Hoe Soon Restaurant, Sin Heng Claypot Bak Koot Teh, and D’Bun – have been running for decades, so they have a lot to share. And for the “Street Corner Heritage Galleries” programme, they are able to do it through mini museums that have been created with the help of the NHB. (I, for one, would love to find out which valuable items they’ve chosen to highlight their memories and milestones best.)
Then again, you absolutely cannot leave without trying their bestsellers too.
For this post, we turn to Edmond Wong, the third-generation owner of Kim Choo Kueh Chang (which is famous for their kueh chang or Nyonya rice dumplings), for insights and tips – which we hope will inspire you to visit the Katong-Joo Chiat neighbourhood and others as well, and view them (and your place in them) in a different light. It’s certainly a nice way to spend a day or weekend.
Introducing Katong-Joo Chiat
“Singapore resembles many multicultural societies, boasting a marriage of diverse cultures that sets it apart from other multicultural and developed communities,” Edmond begins.
“The Katong-Joo Chiat neighbourhood provides a window into our history, illustrating how our emphasis on differences has not only enabled us to tolerate differences but also instilled acceptance through it. Acceptance forms an integral aspect of the unique Peranakan culture intertwined with our locality, serving as a lived heritage for numerous Singaporeans.
“The neighbourhood also harbours concealed treasures of bygone charms and memories, fostering connections with its residents and merchants,” he continues.
“The transformation of our surroundings becomes palpable, especially during the blossoming of the Mempat trees, symbolising our ongoing efforts to revitalise and strengthen our collective spirit, known as ‘gotong royong.’
“Katong-Joo Chiat seamlessly blends the heritage from our past with contemporary life, establishing itself as Singapore’s inaugural heritage town not defined by race but characterised by an ongoing commitment to embracing shared experiences and memories,” he concludes.
What’s good to know about Katong-Joo Chiat
“Numerous back lanes have undergone cleanup efforts and are now safe for people to explore mural art paintings,” Edmond answers.
“Many of these artworks draw inspiration from our Peranakan heritage and the stories passed down for future generations to reflect upon. I encourage you to take the time to explore these back lanes, as they conceal hidden gems that are worthy of being shared on modern-day social media platforms.”
3 more reasons to love Katong-Joo Chiat
“While significant developments and notable changes have transformed my neighbourhood over time, certain memorable incidents consistently resonate with me when reflecting on this historic town,” Edmond says.
#1 You can’t help but go back
“To begin with, the enduring tradition of families revisiting our neighbourhood has left a lasting impression. Generations make it a point to explore our locality; they are guided by the previous generation, who share stories of places they once inhabited or frequented during festive occasions like Lunar New Year or Duanwu festivals.
“Witnessing successive generations at our visitor centre or retail shop along Joo Chiat Place is always heartwarming, as it introduces us to new members of their families,” he goes on.
“These encounters highlight the neighbourhood’s role as a timeless magnet, drawing generations back to reconnect and forge meaningful memories. Whether they are locals or foreigners, each visit offers an opportunity to rediscover the area, not solely due to physical changes but also because of the rekindling of relationships.”
#2 Some things stay the same
“The preservation of our natural surroundings, where old trees stand resilient, speaks volumes about our commitment to conserving the neighbourhood’s memories,” he adds.
“Communities actively contribute to showcase their childhood memories and participate in endeavours such as cleaning up back alleys, ensuring that our streets maintain a family-friendly atmosphere. These initiatives, naturally developed and supported by local authorities, reveal a distinctive facet of our cherished memories.”
#3 It’s a unique slice of Singapore
“Lastly, Katong-Joo Chiat serves as a miniature representation of Singapore as an island and its people. It transcends being merely a melting pot of diverse races and cultures; it is a community where differences are acknowledged and embraced by those who value traditions.”
Plus other Katong-Joo Chiat favourites
“Pinpointing a single favourite spot or hangout proves challenging, as there are countless places that hold cherished memories for me to reminisce and share with others,” Edmond admits. Still, he tries:
• Favourite spots or hangouts
“During my childhood, I had the privilege of spending a significant amount of time in nature, climbing coconut trees, constructing forts with my neighbours, and enjoying simple pleasures like tossing rocks into the canals that crisscrossed our neighbourhood.
“Although those places have disappeared and my interests have evolved in adulthood, I find solace in arranging business meetings within the neighbourhood. This practice fosters a sense of tranquillity and mutual trust, allowing me to share memories with individuals who may not have experienced our locality before.
“I often frequent various traditional stores run by the younger generation, where handcrafted prata is served, or visit an elderly couple who serves congee – an all-time favourite for those who live or used to reside in our neighbourhood.”
• Favourite foods and eateries
“My siblings and I always cherish the time spent visiting our parents, indulging in the delight of my mother’s home-cooked meals,” he recalls.
“It’s essential to recognise that every household has its own family favourites that draw them back home, either to relish the familiar flavours or to make special requests from their home-cooking mothers. Similarly, we have our own preference, which is to enjoy the distinctive taste of my mother’s home-cooked Peranakan dishes.
“With numerous favourites to choose from, if I had to pick one, it would undoubtedly be my mother’s bitter vegetable pork porridge. This dish stands out as the most flavourful and nutritious option, making it a convenient choice for a satisfying meal – one that can be enjoyed with just a bowl and a spoon, making it easy to savour multiple servings.”
• Favourite “secrets”
“Many Singaporeans and foreigners may not realise that, despite being a warm climate island, Singapore boasts its own unique seasons that showcase the changing colours of the landscape,” Edmond points out.
“One such enchanting place is Katong-Joo Chiat, home to native plants like the Mempat trees, which bloom with magical and elegant pink flowers in the months of February and August. During the right season, our streets are transformed into a sea of pink.
“In the early days of Singapore’s independence, our founding leader, the late Lee Kuan Yew, planted a Mempat tree to commemorate our nation’s freedom and express the vision of creating a garden city in the heart of Southeast Asia. These plants hold special significance for our island, extending beyond mere heritage. They symbolise our independence and the collective efforts to build a multicultural society founded on the principles of acceptance.”
• Favourite things
“In an old town such as Katong-Joo Chiat, transportation poses a considerable challenge, even for locals eager to explore our neighbourhood. However, a notable advantage of our area is that numerous pre-war buildings feature pavements with built-in shelters. This means that, even under the scorching sun, individuals can comfortably navigate through shaded areas while exploring around.”
• Favourite people
“My grandmother left behind not only a culinary legacy, but also enduring values and traditions that are worth passing down through generations. Despite lacking formal education, the stories and traditions inherited from her Peranakan heritage continue to resonate with our entire family. Former neighbours frequently return to our old shop along 60 Joo Chiat Place to reminisce about her cheerful and helpful personality.
“In the early days of Singapore’s independence, significant strides were made by the first batch of political leaders to shape the foundations of modern Singapore. My grandmother, a Nyonya, reaped the benefits when a Member of Parliament named Dr Fong Kim Heng assisted her in obtaining a bank loan to acquire a shophouse in the heart of Katong-Joo Chiat. In her earlier years, my grandmother had struggled to make ends meet, selling Nyonya rice dumplings under a banyan tree at the cross junction of Joo Chiat Place and Everitt Road, alongside her maternal grandmother. With Dr Fong’s help, my family was able to escape poverty and build a livelihood based on the culinary skills passed down from my great-great-grandmother.
“My grandmother instilled in us the understanding that, within our capacity, we should continue to assist those in need. She emphasised the importance of giving back, as our family had received help during our toughest times.
“While I am tempted to single out my grandmother as my favourite person, I must acknowledge that the community and the memories that shaped us into who we are today hold immense value. They are an integral part of our identity as a family.”
• Favourite activities
“These days, as a parent, much of my time is dedicated to my children. Much like how my grandmother shared stories from our past, I also find significance in imparting such narratives and experiences to my children. I hope that, during their life journeys, they will come to appreciate that memories are crafted in the present and, in their rightful time, will provide moments to reminisce.”
Finally: How to spend an ideal day at Katong-Joo Chiat
#1 Know where you’re going
“Feel free to visit our Visitor Centre (111 East Coast Road, Singapore 428801), where you can obtain complimentary self-guided maps,” Edmond suggests.
#2 Play dress-up
“Additionally, enquire about the opportunity to don traditional attire and capture stunning photographs with our in-house photographer.”
#3 Get a makeover
“For a truly indulgent experience, consider going all out by visiting one of our partner salons for a treatment, styling your hair in the fashion of a traditional Nyonya or a smart-looking Baba.”
#4 Check and plan
“There's a myriad of activities to explore in our neighbourhood, and we highly recommend pre-booking some of the highlights available on our website.”
When you’re done experiencing Katong-Joo Chiat’s many charms, don’t you think it’s time to sit down and eat at Kim Choo Kueh Chang? Edmond shares these bonus recommendations and observations:
How to enjoy dining at Kim Choo Kueh Chang
“Make a deliberate effort to connect with the people in our neighbourhood, particularly at Kim Choo Kueh Chang,” he advises.
“We value relationships and are confident that your next visit to us will feel akin to visiting a long-lost relative from overseas. Exploring every delicacy or finding the perfect apparel or souvenir might be overwhelming, so feel free to seek our assistance in selecting something that aligns with your taste buds or suits your preferences for gifting, and encapsulates a piece of your journey through our Katong-Joo Chiat neighbourhood.”
What to order at Kim Choo Kueh Chang
Edmond’s favourite dish on the menu? The Nyonya Rice Dumplings or the Nine-Layered Nyonya Kuehs.
“There are numerous stories and valuable lessons to glean from savouring our heritage delights,” he says.
“Beyond the Nyonya Rice Dumplings and the Nine-Layered Nyonya Kuehs’ delicious taste, there are specific ways to consume them that impart wisdom worth passing down through the generations.”
How to eat Nine-Layered Nyonya Kuehs
“They are traditionally enjoyed by delicately peeling away the layers of presented colours instead of consuming them whole. This ritual signifies more than just eating; it symbolises relishing life as it should be,” Edmond explains.
“Bright colours may signify success or happiness, while dull colours might represent moments of sadness or failures in our lives. A complete rainbow is only revealed when we piece together the good and bad memories.
“Constantly encountering bright and beautiful colours does not necessarily create a full rainbow. Therefore, through generations, we’ve been taught to savour them layer by layer. Rushing through life by chewing the kueh suggests a shortcut, potentially shortening our lifespan by hurrying through life’s wonderful journey.”
What it’s like to be involved in the Street Corner Heritage Galleries
“We are deeply honoured and humbled to be selected as participants in the Street Corner Heritage Galleries,” Edmond reveals.
“This undertaking has prompted us to delve further into our physical archives, searching for pictures and artefacts from our past to share with visitors. It has also provided opportunities for meaningful dialogues with our parents, transporting them back to a time when they faced numerous challenges.
“This involvement with the Street Corner Heritage Galleries serves as a poignant reminder to my family and me about the role of our business as a space to connect communities. It offers us the chance to contribute positively alongside many others who share a similar vision. We appreciate this opportunity and eagerly anticipate many more chances to enhance our understanding and appreciation of Singapore’s shared heritage in the future.”
What the word “heritage” means to Edmond
“We need to acknowledge that the term ‘heritage’ doesn’t necessarily refer only to old traditions. On the contrary, it should be viewed as a force that enables us to cultivate a unique identity in our multicultural society, such as Singapore,” he muses.
“For me, ‘heritage’ holds significant meaning in terms of relevance. While stories from our past offer insights, we can continually glean lessons and establish new foundations to fortify the positive values and customs left by preceding generations for us to uphold.”
How it changed the way he sees Kim Choo Kueh Chang and Katong-Joo Chiat
“It is inherent in our DNA, as a heritage business, to be advocates for what we practise.
“As custodians of our Peranakan heritage, we take pride in revitalising and redefining our traditions to ensure their continued relevance in changing times. As a business that fosters memories across generations, we bear the responsibility of safeguarding and being the voice of a generation in a world that becomes more polarised due to globalisation and the ever-connected nature of the internet.
“Katong-Joo Chiat will forever remain a distinctive precinct and special neighbourhood, acting as a magnet that sparks curiosity. It is my hope that this curiosity will keep the flames of passion burning for many generations beyond our foreseeable future.”
The best thing about running a heritage business like Kim Choo Kueh Chang, and of it being located within the Katong-Joo Chiat area
“The most rewarding aspect of a heritage business, such as ours, is the opportunity to be with my family members every single day,” Edmond admits.
“In contrast to traditional work settings where siblings might pursue diverse interests or areas of expertise in different industries, we gather all of them in our workplace, navigating our differences to find common ground for collaboration.
“Ultimately, we don’t perceive ourselves solely as a food business but rather as a heritage business with a mission to champion and promote the Peranakan heritage.”
Let’s raise a Nine-Layered Nyonya Kueh to that, shall we?
Find “Street Heritage Galleries” here, and Kim Choo Kueh Chang here and on Facebook and Instagram.