What makes a good hand roll?
Nicholas Goh of Onori in Singapore shows you what to look for in a hand roll to surprise your taste buds
Want a complete and tasty meal in a few bites?
Consider a Japanese hand roll (or hand rolls, depending on your appetite). Hand rolls are practical, filling and quick to eat.
They also look pretty – you can see the ingredients and get an idea of their flavours and textures. And if you’re making your own, you can easily experiment and have them suit your palate.
Just ask Nicholas Goh, director of Onori – an open-style Japanese hand roll restaurant at Far East Square in Singapore.
“My initial idea of a hand roll was more classic, like the typical triangular California hand rolls available at your traditional sushi chains in Singapore,” he says.
“I never really fancied them, as I felt that the shape was a bit weird for eating since most ingredients are usually on top. I usually just end up eating the top part with all the ingredients and throwing the extra rice at the bottom away.
“That is why, when we did Onori, we made the hand rolls open to keep it visually appealing,” he explains.
“With this open format, the ingredients and rice are evenly distributed throughout every bite. We also naturally have a higher ingredient-to-rice ratio.”
The Onori style of hand rolls
Onori uses fresh and premium ingredients, from their Akitakomachi rice down to their A5 wagyu, and presents them with an omakase-like flair.
So if you’re intrigued by the possibilities and need more hand roll choices, here’s their thought process to inspire you.
“We started off by deciding on the proteins we enjoy eating and trying out common pairings with them, before adding more creative and unique ingredients,” Nicholas recalls.
“Regarding the flavour, we wanted to ensure that there is an additional flavour option beyond just sashimi and shoyu. For example, we paired the salmon together with sesame and chilli oil (for the Spicy Salmon hand roll) to give it an extra dimension, and yuzu with our snow crab and negitoro (for the Snow Crab & Negitoro hand roll) for that zing.
“We then ensured that each hand roll has a distinct texture, such as the crunchy jellyfish paired with our scallop hand roll (Hotate with Uni Paste), and the crispy mala fish skin paired with our salmon hand roll (Spicy Salmon). Adding different dimensions and textures makes the flavour more unique and memorable,” he continues.
“We also conducted numerous tasting sessions, adjusting the rice, sauces, flavour combinations and proportions of each hand roll until everything came together nicely. We were trying our best to accommodate a broader range of taste buds.”
Other hand roll rules
Rule #1: Focus on the ingredients, flavours and textures
“I don’t think there is a hard-and-fast rule with this,” Nicholas admits.
“To be honest, the open hand roll is not a very traditional thing to do, given Japan’s strong adherence to tradition and roots.
“However, if there are several practices we strive to deliver with our hand rolls: No extra seasoning is required. They are crispy, nori is used, and the rice is umami-packed, with a high ingredient-to-rice ratio and still at everyday prices,” he states.
“Onori’s hand rolls, priced between S$11.90 and S$17.90 for sets of three to five rolls, are not cheaper than your typical hawker fare or utility pre-made sushi. However, we believe that our consumers can see past this, as we are still almost half the price of other hand roll specialists in Singapore and deliver great value without compromising on quality.”
Then again: “I believe there are several key components that contribute to a good hand roll,” Nicholas stresses.
“Personally, I prefer one with more protein, as I’m able to taste the roll better and it also makes me feel like I’m getting better value for my money.
“Additionally, I find it rather cumbersome to dip the shoyu, as it can easily go out of balance. It would be great if the sushi were already seasoned, like in omakases,” he goes on.
“The seaweed should also be crispy so that you get nice textures complementing every bite, and the flavours should be unique, so that they won’t taste similar to all the other shops out there.”
Rule #2: Eat what makes you happy
You can also familiarise yourself with sushi or hand roll culture. “Hand roll culture is about appreciating good hand rolls without making it overly serious. It’s about enjoying different flavours. At Onori, we keep things casual and fast without compromising on the quality of the food.
“Anyone can join in. Just come in and try a few rolls,” he urges. “We have a diverse selection, and we’ll sure you’ll find your favourite.”
Get it with Nicholas’ help here.
How to make a hand roll
Nicholas: “Well-seasoned rice, fresh ingredients wrapped in crispy nori, and eaten immediately.”
How to customise a hand roll
“Swap the protein, sauces and toppings until we find a good combination.”
Kitchen essentials for hand rolls
“Fresh sashimi, a rice cooker, a cutting board and a knife, basic condiments and good nori.”
Tips to elevate a hand roll
“Nice flavour combinations, complexity in texture, and making them open-face also seems to elevate the visuals.”
How to eat a hand roll
“We recommend eating the hand roll immediately.”
Good to know
What’s the difference between a sushi roll vs a hand roll?
Nicholas: “They are similar in that they are sashimi and rice wrapped in seaweed. However, sushi rolls or maki are usually rolled and cut into six to eight pieces, while hand rolls are usually just one single, bigger roll.”
Dos and don’ts for hand rolls
“Do: Eat it as soon as possible. Don’t: Keep it out for too long, as it might compromise the quality of the seaweed.”
Favourite hand roll ingredients and ingredient combinations
“From Onori, it’d be our Hotate with Uni Paste, and Snow Crab & Negitoro with shio koji and yuzu.”
What you’d suggest first-timers order at Onori
“They could go for Spicy Salmon, the general crowd pleaser, or something richer like the A5 Wagyu and the savoury Miso Gindara; or try something unique such as the Smoked Hamachi.”
Advantages of either ordering an à la carte roll vs a hand roll set
“There is none, actually. Our hand roll sets are priced significantly lower than the à la carte options. Unless you’ve already eaten and just want a light snack.”
How to achieve a flavour balance or have our palates and appetites be satisfied, if we were to order a set of different hand rolls
“Our hand rolls are typically split into three different types: Raw, Fried and Aburi-ed. Get a variety of the three different types so you’ll be exposed to different cooking styles.”
Favourite places for hand rolls
“The Nori Handroll Bar & Izakaya in Las Vegas, and Rappu in Singapore.”
What your ideal or complete hand roll meal looks and tastes like
“A mix of flavours, starting from light and refreshing to something rich and indulgent.”
What hand roll do you reach out for when you...
• want something light
“Smoked Hamachi.”
• need something that can help you last longer throughout the day
“Chicken Nanban.”
• are in the mood for something unusual
“Miso Cod.”
• haven’t had a hand roll in so long that you miss it
“A5 Wagyu.”
• are serving guests
“Hotate with Uni Paste.”
• are looking for an early morning or midnight snack
“Spicy Maguro.”
• want to feel healthy
“Spicy Salmon.”
Most memorable hand rolls you’ve ever had
“It’s gotta be Onori! No one serves interesting flavours and combinations like we do!”
Best foods and drinks to pair hand rolls with
“Hot tea to cleanse the palate without overpowering the flavours of the rolls.”
Tips to make hand rolls look pretty
“Keep the ingredients visible, don’t overfill the roll, layer ingredients, and make sure the nori is crisp.”
By the way: Is a hand roll holder a good investment?
“If you’re serving hand rolls frequently at home, yes, they certainly are a good investment,” Nicholas answers.
“Keep them upright if you’re serving them open; you can probably buy them from Shopee. If not, just roll up your hand rolls and you can serve them on any plate.
“Most holders are made of wood, hence be sure to dry them properly before using them again.”
Happy hand roll tasting!
Onori is at 135 Amoy Street, #01-03, Far East Square, Singapore 049964. Find them here and on Facebook, TikTok and Instagram.