Have you ever tried the Fifth Pillar?
It’s a zesty blast of a drink, according to Kong Len of Raffles Hotel’s Elephant Bar in Phnom Penh
“Fifth Pillar” sounds like a good title for a sci-fi or horror movie, or even a book. Maybe a video game too? But that’s just me.
It’s actually a drink – a cocktail, to be exact – and it was created by Kong Len, the bar captain at the Elephant Bar in Raffles Hotel Le Royal in Phnom Penh, Cambodia.
Given its name and the Elephant Bar’s history (it opened in 1929, and had Charlie Chaplin and playwright W. Somerset Maugham as guests), I think I should be forgiven for assuming so. Because like a movie, a book, a game or a place, the Fifth Pillar has the makings of an interesting story too.
“The drink was created as part of an international competition organised by Four Pillars gin,” Len begins.
“We wanted to add the fifth pillar of ‘charity’, so for each cocktail we sell, we will share some of the profits with Sunrise Cambodia.” (It’s an organisation that helps children and communities in need.)
What’s more, the Fifth Pillar shines a light on local orange and lime farmers. “The cocktail showcases the local products and culture of Cambodia by engaging people and showing them how fruits here are often enjoyed with salt,” Len states.
This explains why the drink has “rich citrus flavours” and is “served with a side of orange quarters and salt, so you can experience the incredible Pursat oranges in their different states”. (Pursat is a province in Cambodia; the oranges are also grown in Battambang.)
It’s a personal thing
Len’s love for citrus fruits and flavours is not surprising.
“My parents would always bring home green oranges for the whole family back in the day,” he recalls.
“On the other hand, lime is a staple in our kitchen, and in Cambodia, we love intense flavours – sour in particular – which is evident throughout Cambodian cuisine. It’s healthy and flavourful. It also has a beautiful golden colour.”
Come to think of it, citrus fruits do add so much to a dish. “We love our spices in Cambodia, and we are proud of it,” Len relates. “Samlar Machu, a sour soup and a popular dish, uses the kroeung spice blend of lemongrass, makrut lime, galangal and tamarind. It gives the dish a boost of sourness and ties all the other flavours together beautifully.
“In addition, we use citrus flavours in almost every meal, from breakfast to dessert.”
So it’s important to have that citrus element – and to use it abundantly and wisely – as Len has managed to do in his kitchen and with the Fifth Pillar. Well, if you truly want to appreciate Cambodian flavours and savour the drink’s refreshing taste, that is.
The layers
If you’re not in Cambodia at the moment to order the Fifth Pillar, that’s okay. Len tells us what it took to create it – and shares his ingredients and tips. You can use them to imagine what it tastes like, or be inspired to make something similar in the meantime.
• Extract the citrus flavours
“There is a proper way to cut or slice lemons and oranges to maximise the amount of citrus extract. For us bartenders, flaming a citrus peel expresses the oil from the skin of the citrus, boosting the flavour and aroma of the drink.”
• Keep the orange skin
“Orange skin can add a nice aroma to the drink, and we mostly use it as an ingredient to make a great cocktail. However, it doesn’t always have to be an ingredient or component – it could simply be for aesthetics.”
• Use orange bitter
Fifth Pillar’s is homemade. “A good orange bitter should burst with flavour and give that citrus edge to the drink. Using only a few drops, it needs to have the proper balance of herbs and spices.”
• Choose a good dry gin
“Everyone has unique preferences regarding the profile of their dry gin. Like all spirits, a dry gin should have a good balance, allowing each of its botanicals to express themselves. The combination of flavours should be harmonious and relevant without overtaking the other.
“It all depends on how you are planning to use it. In a gin and tonic, a classic juniper and citrus London dry gin works perfectly. For Negroni, it is nice to try a bolder, spicier gin with a more robust flavour profile to bring a nice edge to the cocktail.
“Finally, trying more savoury gin options for a dry or dirty martini would be interesting.”
• Include rock salt, kaffir lime leaves and orange zest
“It is a classic salt recipe that’s meant to be enjoyed with young green fruits in Cambodia. We also want to bring as many local components as possible to the cocktail through the ingredients, the presentation, and way of consumption,” Len observes.
“The salt mix on the rim intensifies the flavour and cuts through the acidity of the cocktail, making the overall drink experience much more pleasurable.”
Don’t forget to roast the three. “The roasting of these ingredients creates a rich and savoury feel, and gives the drink a hint of a smoky flavour.”
• Buy and source local
Your region’s own oranges and limes will make your drink special. In Cambodia, “There are local vendors of green oranges (Pursat orange) in Phnom Penh, located not far from the hotel, all locally grown in the province of Battambang,” Len suggests.
Lastly, experiment
There’s no need to rush, he advises.
“It took some time, as making a bitter takes several days. We spent a lot of that time learning and manipulating the obvious and subtle components of each flavour; then we decided on the concept of the drink, which features the different types of oranges in Cambodia, and proceeded with several tastings until we found the right balance.”
Here are three more steps from Len to keep in mind:
#1 Use products that you like and are familiar to you
#2 Don’t just follow a recipe
“It requires a discerning palate to know when something is lacking, or if there’s something that needs to be added to elevate its flavour.”
#3 Balance the drink’s sweetness and acidity
It’s “the most important” of all, according to Len. “There are numerous sources of sweetness (honey, syrup, jams, caramel, etc) as well as acidity (lime, passionfruit, calamansi) that can be used and combined, but you should always aim for something that’s easy to drink.”
Or maybe you can save yourself the effort and just visit Len and the Elephant Bar? I would (mainly because I’ve never really tried making my own drinks).
Find Raffles Hotel Le Royal here. Raffles Hotels & Resorts is on Facebook, Instagram, YouTube and Twitter.
(By the way, the ingredients are shaken then strained into a chilled martini glass.)