What does American-Singaporean soul food look like?
And taste like, too? Wanyu Bradley of Nitty Gritty in Singapore highlights their fusion of flavours
I’ve had grits before, but it happened many years ago.
I remember enjoying it but didn’t have a lot of time to savour it. I was on assignment (it was a Singapore food event) and I had to focus on work.
But now I do have the time, and if I ever look for it in Singapore, my first stop would be Nitty Gritty. (No more searching for shrimp and grits near me then.)
Nitty Gritty offers their own brand of American-Singaporean soul food. Wondering what that is?
First off: “‘Soul food’ is the ethnic cuisine of African Americans, and it originated from the South of America,” says Wanyu Bradley, Nitty Gritty’s co-founder and general manager.
“It took form as far back as the Transatlantic Slave Trade, when enslaved Africans who were brought on to American soil were given produce that were low in quality and nutritional value.
“With limited resources and lots of creativity and good taste, they managed to create uniquely distinct flavours with basic ingredients like corn grits, beans and collard greens.”
Add a Singaporean take, and you’ll get American-Singaporean soul food – and something like their Hainanese Chicken Grits, which has Hainanese chicken, ginger garlic grits, pickled cucumbers and baby kai lan.
“My husband, Matthew (Bradley), the head chef and co-founder of Nitty Gritty, is African American, and me being Singaporean Chinese, the menu of the restaurant is a marriage of both cultures,” Wanyu explains.
“What we create here is a fusion of soul food and Singaporean flavours. When we were brainstorming the different dishes, we found many parallels between the ingredients that are used in both our cultures – for example, frog legs (we make them here braised with porridge; while with soul food you fry them), pig’s intestines (we have pork organ soup or fried as a side dish; while with soul food you boil or braise them), and okra (we stir-fry them while it’s deep-fried in soul food).”
Still trying to envision it? Wanyu gives us a visual taste here. (But of course you have to go to their Teo Hong Road restaurant for the real deal.)
Know your grits with Nitty Gritty’s Wanyu Bradley
How would you explain grits to people who’ve never had them?
Wanyu: “The texture would be similar to rice porridge, oatmeal and risotto.”
What were some of the feedback you received?
“All were pleasantly surprised! I think most found that it’s not as different as our local dishes in terms of flavours, but it’s now existing in a different form.”
What was the process of creating your menu like?
“We started conceptualising the menu in 2023, during a short trip in Chicago. We were thinking of grits as simply another form of carbs that can hold flavours really well. With that as a base, we layered it with our childhood experiences from our mothers’ cooking, as well as the local cuisine and our favourite dishes. We also drew inspiration from our loved ones. Our sodas are all made in-house, with flavours that are reminiscent of drinks from the US which are unavailable here.
“A lot of the R&D happened at home for more than a year. We often joked that the restaurant is basically filled with dishes that Matt made for me and I love. For example, most of the egg dishes that he is making now that are many guests’ go-to orders were what he made for me for breakfast daily!”
Your favourite memories and experiences tied to these flavours
“My mother-in-law used to hold a full-time job while taking care of five children, and she would always make the effort to cook delicious food for Matthew and his siblings. That is one of the ways Matthew experienced love tangibly growing up, and it is the way that he, too, loves us. He back-engineered and recreated his mother’s recipe for macaroni and cheese from the good memories growing up.
“He often says that food is a conduit of love. And the ultimate aim for us is to show love to anyone who walks through our doors.
“As for me, I had my first taste of grits during my first trip to Detroit after we got married back in 2022. It was hearty, exploding with flavours, and it reminded me of a good hot bowl of rice porridge – it didn’t turn watery like a porridge normally would, mid-meal! I started having shrimp and grits throughout different cafes and restaurants when we were in the US, and found it interesting that different cities would have different takes on the spices and flavours.”
Your favourite facts about grits
“It’s a testament to the grit (haha) and creativity of a people who were oppressed, who despite their circumstances transformed a raw material into a dish that’s nutritious, satisfying and adaptable to different dishes. It’s also really cool to me that different cultures use ground corn in some form – for instance, the Chinese mix grits with rice grains to get a porridge with a bit of texture, and the Italians have polenta that many are familiar with.
“When we grind grits down further, we get cornmeal, which is used in different baked goods. And also! I love this tidbit: You know how rice porridge has a tendency to become diluted and watery mid-bowl? Grits don’t do that! That is due to the difference in the speed of starch release (rice starts as a whole grain, and it’s like a bomb waiting to release starch with every stir; whereas grits are already broken and coarse, thus the starch release is slower), as well as the difference in the starch structure present in the two grains.”
Tips to get grits right
“Lots of love, lots of time, and infusing good flavours.”
How to combine and balance other flavours with grits
“I think it’s actually really versatile depending on the way you cook them or like them. A guest once mentioned that he likes it with just milk. We like ours flavourful by itself and ‘accessorised’ by the other sides.”
Best ways to use and serve grits
“Hot and loose and gooey.”
Your favourite places in Singapore to have grits, American food, or the soul food you love
“My favourite grits is by Matthew, of course, in Nitty Gritty. Smoked meats-wise, we love Cherry & Oak.”
Best ingredients to go with grits
“I personally think that chilli crisps are the bee’s knees with grits.”
A grits recipe you can never go wrong with
“Love and time.”
Sweet vs savoury grits
“Savoury.”
Your ideal soul food meal
“Grits and mac and cheese.”
Underrated ways to make pancakes and waffles
“A lot of time and effort goes into prepping the batter! Flavouring them just right is the most important part. I think many people (myself included) don’t realise the labour that goes into making the batter.”
How to experiment with American and Singaporean cuisines
“I don’t know of an unfunny way to say this – to eat a lot! Matthew used to be a taste hunter for the World’s 50 Best. His palate is extra sensitive to interesting flavours, and his creativity boosts the process exponentially.”
Tips to create a satisfying brunch
“Balance is important, from textures to flavours.”
Your favourite rules for sides
“I don’t have them to be honest, haha!”
The one dish from your menu (or home) that always inspires you
“Shrimp and grits. It’s the first dish I fell in love with, which was created for the menu, and I watched it evolve from our home kitchen to what it is now.”
What you’d order first at Nitty Gritty if you were a diner
“Shrimp and Grits and a Sparkling Apple Cider, finished with our incredibly fudgy brownie.”
Nitty Gritty is at 21 Teo Hong Road, #01-01, Singapore 088331. Find them here and on Facebook and Instagram.